The next Bit

This is ( the dotted bit) The route we hopt to follow over the next few months.. (sorry but you will have to trabslate the russian if you want to know the names of the places)

Our host Simone, and her cats. She is lovely and good fun.

Baku at night.

Many new building projects going on here.

Nic loves the TV tower.. it changes colour every 5 mins.. she likes the purple green combo best! but we missed it in the photo.

After we have crossed the caspian sea (if we can ever catch the ferry,) we think we may be out of comunication for a few weeks.. So you will just have to guess from the map where we are. But you just never know!

The road to Baku Azerbaijan

Here we are at the border between Georgia and Azerbaijan. If you read the sign it might make you think that you are in for an interesting passage through the border.... but no! no problems what so ever. Nice border guards and a swift passage through.

The road we rode along were not all in the best of condition! This river was a bit too deep and a bit too fast flowing, so off with the trailer and carry all the bits across one by one. The next crossing was impossible to get across, unless you had either a Lada 4x4 or a Kamaz truck ( those of you that know the Paris Dakar rally will have heard of these) So what to do? Luckily a new bridge was being built and the workers helped us across ( more proof that someone is looking after us)

Nic at Nic

What do you think? (One time when the clouds allowed us a glimpse of the Caucaus mountains in their full snowy glory)

Spring is here..... At last!

Вы плохо говорю по русски (we speak Russian badly)

Sam and Andrew. When you are staying in a backpackers place you meet all sorts of fellow travelers. The good ones are great! These two had us in stitches..... We hope they will come and visit us at home one day (they are both Americans who have escaped from Arizona....to Oxford and Freiberg respectively). They speak American, German, and they have forgotten their Hebrew. Do not ask Andrew what the point is..... he will never get there and you will die laughing

Dodo and Theo. Dodo is in her 70's and its her "home stay" that most budget travelers in Tblisi end up in. She is interested in everybody and frightened of nobody. She thinks westerners are all phobic about putting sugar in their tea "why not?" she says.. and will ask the young Fins why they have tattoed their bodies.. "What for" she says "It is painfull, no?" Here she is listening and correcting Theo's Russian. Theo is another escaped American who also rides a bike. He speaks American French German Arabic and quite a lot of Russian (though not up to Dodo's exacting standards) Dodo speaks Georgian and Russian fluently and her own brand of English.

Sasha and Shalwan.. On our last night in Tbilisi we had a great night out with these two. We went to a Georgian restaurant that had some proper live traditional singing. We did not drink too many bears (contrary to normal habits) so after we wandered around the city looking at the lit up buildings (my favorite is the flashing tall tv tower that is obviosly sending and receiving messages from space aliens) Sasha speaks Russian Armenian Georgian (when Shalwan makes him) and English. Shalwan speaks Georgian Russian and better English... he is always laughing.

Dashkan, Ali and the Chai shop owner ( not the mafia) Once we had crossed the border into Azerbaijan we were back into tea drinking culture, where it is often hard to make progress because of all the kind offers to drink tea. These lovely guys from the small village of Cho ban chol, also made us stop for a meal with them too.. a delicious sort of omlette / kebeb mix with minty yougurt and fresh bred. Dashkan spoke good English as well as fluent Azeri and Russian. Ali spoke Azeri and Ruski and had very good sign language!

Aysel and Anurag with some other oldish fellow at the burning rocks near Baku. With our usual luck we were found by these two and rescued from our aimless city wanderings to join them on a more cultural excursion. Aysel is from Baku and knows lots of interesting things and Anurag is an Indian who is living in Cyprus and its thanks to him that we find ourselves currently in unusualy luxurious living accomodation (Jon will explain later but at the moment he is rivited by the 4x4 motorcross on tv. No doubt its the Russki commentary that is holding his attention.)

Anurag can speak Hindi English German and Software. Aysal can speak Azeri, Russki, English, Turkish, Spanish, Persian, German and French. She says she is never going to bother to learn Chinese!

Tbilisi special ...part 2

Bolshoi spacibo Sasha !Not only was Sasha brave enough to take on the monumental task of trying to get us started in the famously difficult Russki yazik {language}, but he also a great guy to get to know,,,,,,and much cleverer than both of us. He can speak russian,armenian,georgian...and english!!!How clever is that.!And...he knows all about computers too!And, he,s really nice as well,and we wish him all the best for the future.

All over the city at this time of year especially,there are beautiful flowers for sale.I think Georgia is famous for its Roses. Jon is either puddle dancing,or doing his one legged ankle exercises.

Pie city. Everywhere you can buy fresh pies to eat. Cheese pies,mushroom pies,bean pies,spinach pies,pies with things in you don't know what they are pies,all kinds of pies. Jon has been trying to eat at least 3 pies a day [ i have 6 !]

If you can read the sign.....its the "free"bit thats the clue....you will understand why Jon,s expression is slightly crazed.

Another clear cool day exploring the city. If you have eagle eyesight and are interested.....the snow covered Caucasus mtns are in the background.

Of course we have a load more photos to try your patience,but instead we are off to Azerbaijan in the morning.

Tbilisi special... part 1

This is us on a rest day (another one of those steeper than steep hills we seem to keep finding) but it took us upto a wonderful view point.

Tbilisi is a city full of surprises. A great place to rest and relax, learn Russian and eat a few pies (this is the pie capital of the world, which you will See later)

The churches that fell into disrepair during the Communist era are all being rebuilt and restored.. Some beautiful buildings.

Even at night there are wonderful sights.. We didn't take a picture of the tv tower, but its like a constant firework display... every night!! Think this is David the Builder (he got in even before Bob)

This guy didn't speak any english but then again I speak (or spoke at the time!!) very little Russian. So it took a while for me to convince him that I did know how to take the sprocket off the hub.. But once I had convinced him that I did know what I was on about.. he was invaluable. He is also the mechanic for the Iberian Cycling team!! Their team car is a fiat cincenquento!! gives you an idea of their budget.

The smoked fish market!! the fish was wonderful.. very tasty.. and reasonably priced.. It was also handily situated just down the road from the brewery that sold beer from windows in the side, all you had to do was bring an empty container and they would fill it up.. So we saw many groups of men sitting on the banks of the river drinking beer and eating fish.. How civilised.. (I thought)

third attempt at putting this onto the blog!!!!

Its not quite just the stove that sometimes slightly annoys Jon. My fantastic abilities with the computer occasionally make him sigh with exasperation and scratch his head. All this though is nothing compared to trying to speak the Russki Ynzik.

Animals in Georgia live the free and easy life and go where they want.

If you are bored at work you can zoom in and try counting frogs.

We have never heard [let alone seen ],so many. You can hear them from miles away.
The muezzin call to prayer has been replaced in georgia by the frogs calling to mate !

Photographic evidence....of Jon finding his favourite bit of the stove again . Thats the 2nd time ....does there have to be a third. !

A water buffalo we think. He is thinking too......what are we ? He is probably right to regard us with the deepest suspicion .



Not beng able to do "extreme computing " thats all for today. We {or I } did have a multitude of pics of georgian animals....pigs, dogs, etc....to entertain you with....but tomorrow if time we will show you some of Tbilisi and bicycle things.

Trabzon to Tbilisi

Georgia is full of beautiful old churches... Many being restored as they suffered under the Soviet rule... This one just popped up as we were on the way.. Think we got here when the light was just right, ( Gary would have had to be there for hours to get this shot!!!!)

Our last day in Trabzon with Phil.. Interesting city!! it has a lot more to offer than you at first think...

In Georgia... This was a beautiful valley that we traveled up.... and then back down again.. Never have we been through a country of such decay and beauty together. The rural houses are large with terraced balconies,wrought iron work...filigreed guttering...all different....but nearly all knackered. I think they were mostly built during the relatively prosperous 70's ,and absolutely nothing has happened since....not even a lick of paint. People in the country do not have even 2 beans to rub together. Everything is growing though...it is Spring at last.Most houses have huge vines for shade and wine !Giant bamboo grows in the black sea area..

We did this valley twice as after cycling 80kms to within 11 kms of the pass [at 2ooomtrs ]...
we were told it was closed...under 3 mtrs of snow....so back down 80kms again and the long way round. Just as well prob that jon vetoed my stupid idea of a mtn border crossing in eastern turkey [passes over 2500 ! ].

There is another very good thing about us having to retrace our steps....but jon can fill you in on that if he wants { i have photo evidence ! ]

Jon was unable to resist the opportunity of extra exercise. This one proved later to be the one exercise too far !

Can you imagine the pain involved in doing this exercise.... well then you will imagine the pain and frustration brought on by using our stove... It hasnt let us down too much but it has been the biggest pain for lighting running and everything.. It has a mind of its own! sometimes it can be really nice to you... but sometimes it can be the devil.... but mostly its the devil...

Nic will back me up by telling anyone that I have had allot of patience with it.. (Nic now knows when to say nothing too!!) one example is taking 2 hrs to make a cup of tea!!....

Well..... one morning I just had enough.... across the field went the pan ... closely followed by the stove... Nic very wisely stayed in the tent.. So no coffee for breakfast, and on with the day...

That night (however) I discovered that in my rage!!!!! the diffuser on the top of the stove was missing (this is the second time it has mysteriously gone missing! the first time we had to backtrack for it was in Holland!)

But as luck would have it.... being forced to go back down the valley.. we had the chance to pick it up again... ( phew!!!!!)

I did promise to Nic that I wouldnt do this again... (bloody stove!!)

Right. You see that large white lump below jon,s hands. That is poisoned cheese,which we are both about to gaily tuck into. The consequences later that night were dramatically sudden and fairly catastrophic,especially for jon. [no more detail is required]. It left us quite weak and wobbly,and together with the "detour"is mainly why it took us so long to get to Tbilisi. Ah ha though.....having just about recovered , thinking that the culprit was dodgy water, we then tucked into the same cheese again 2 days later. That night we finally ,using our well honed deducing skills,detected that the cheese was the source of all illness .We are still a bit "off " cheese.!

At the moment we are reeling around Tbilisi clutching our notebooks,,,,,trying to learn Russian . Honestly !!!We have our 3rd lesson in about an hour.....so have to rush off to meet Sasha ...so thats all for now ...da svidanya,,,,,